Archive for the 'Top' Category

Deep Purple Drape and Floral Skirt

November 14, 2010

Deep Purple Drape and Floral Skirt, originally uploaded by fmirela.

Blouse Fabric: Rayon Jersey
Blouse Pattern: Burda WOF Magazine 10/1998

The same pattern all over again… for the drape neckline top. I’ve also sewn this pattern recently in a jersey wool, green and the gray one awaits hems.

Skirt Fabric: Cotton poplin with cross grain stretch with floral pattern from JoAnns
Pattern: Burda WOF Magazine 02/2008

I simplified the skirt pattern by removing the waist bands. Nice pattern for a simple pencil skirt.

I added lace under the hem line and hand stitched the hem.

Lace hem

I also added a ribbon (folded over the raw edge) for the front and back facings.

I used an invisible zipper on the side.

I turned the overlocked edges of the side seams towards the inside and sewn over.
Lace hem

Green Fleece

November 14, 2010
 

Green Fleece, originally uploaded by fmirela.

Fabric: Polartec PowerDry found at fashion fabrics club
Pattern: Burda 12/1997 – modified from a Dress, kept the top part, removed the darts added the zipper.

Photo taken on anniversary trip to Zion National Park.

The view

August 30, 2009

The view, originally uploaded by fmirela.

I’m moving out of the place all together on Tuesday…will surely miss that view.

Here’s what I have been up to in June, a somewhat productive month:

Ellinor

Ellinor pattern from BurdaStyle: www.burdastyle.com/projects/ellinor

The knotted top:
Stripes

Another green T-Shirt with pearl snaps, in Lacoste fabric. Wondering whether to put the iron on transfer with the Grand Tetons or just live it as is….
Green T

Pattern: M-Patterns…disappointing. I’m really not pleased with the way this turned out, I don’t like the finishing on it, nor the fit…will probably just use this for the gym or a bike ride
Lacoste Green T

A strange one this time in Lacoste fabrics purple and green, some flowers iron on applique. the neckline is tooo low, i will probably add another green ribbon around it. I’m not sure I like this shape…
A Burda T Shirt

La Mia Boutique T shirt. I adore the pattern. A friend sewn a similar top ages ago, in brown lycra and I decided there and then to make one, or two as well. It did take me a long time, but I will probably reuse this pattern more often now. I think this looks great as a sportish look, but it could also be more elegant in a different pattern and under a cute jacket.
IMG_5625-2

Antique White

Crochet Dress

August 22, 2009

Pattern for the crochet top/dress

http://mirelap.wordpress.com/2008/02/12/crochet-top/

Measurements:

Bust: 80cm

Length: 86cm

Hem: 100cm

Thread: 220g

Crochet hook: Nr.2

Pattern: see drawing

Pattern_crochet_dress

. = chain

x = single crochet

| = double crochet

all those curved lines are chains of 2, 4 and 6 chains as indicated in the drawing.

Test square: for a width of 3 pattern repeats and a height of 3 patterns => 10x10cm

Back:

Start with the shoulder. Chain 13 + 3 for the edge and you will continue downwards. Make 5 rounds of the pattern and put the work aside.

Start with the other shoulder. After the 6th round of pattern chain 48 (i chained 53 just to make it larger).

After the 48 chain, link it with the other shoulder strap. The work will have 10 pattern repeats per width.

Continue work until you have 7 pattern repeats on the vertical.

Armhole shaping:

Make it wider with 7 chains + 3 chains for height, on each side, for the armhole shaping. Work will have 12 pattern repeats per width.

At 13 pattern repeats in total per vertical, first row increase to 5 chains instead of 4. Next row the height will increase from 3 to 4 chains. Next row the chain is increased from 6 chain stitches to 7 chain stitches.

At 19 pattern repeats in total per vertical, increase everything with one chain:

instead of 5 chain stitches => 6 chain stitches

instead of 4 chain stitches => 5 chain stitches on the side

instead of 7 chain stitches => 8 chain stitches

After 26 pattern repeats the back side is finished.

Front:

Just like the back. I did mine wider with two pattern repeats to fit the bust.

Click to download PDF – scanned from an old magazine, original in Hungarian

P.S. hope this is not breaching any copyrights…

Silk Jersey

June 23, 2009

I got silk jersey, in a nude color, excellent drape.

I cannot decide what to sew. My intention was to sew a PJ with long sleeves and pants to have something that breaths well in the sleeping bag and dries faster then cotton… but just can’t decide…I’d like to be able to also wear the top as is, not just as a PJ…

04/2009

04/2009

05/2008

05/2008

04/2008

10/2008

10/2008

03/2008

03/2008

The last two are my favorites…so far…
Or should I simply stick to the drape neckline of the simple yellow top?

What do you think?

Ellinor Tunic Sneak Peak

June 6, 2009

Pattern: Ellinor from BurdaStyle
This pattern is also included in Burda WOF magazine 04/2003

Fabric: Cotton with silver metallic thread JoAnns

Woven Ribbon: with gold metallic thread JoAnns
This ribbon was kind of stiff and hard to curve.

I’ve very pleased with this pattern.

Here’s how to apply the woven ribbon to the neckline:
Tip: to create an invisible seam for the application, I used a metallic thread with a special machine needle that has a large eye.

1. start by pining the ribbon along the neckline, then fold it right sides facing
1. Apply a non stretch woven ribbon to a curved neckline

2. sew in a dart with the wider base to the inner side of the neckline, the V tip of the dart away from the neckline
2. Apply a non stretch woven ribbon to a curved neckline

3. unfold the dart and see how the ribbon now lays curved along the neckline
3. Apply a non stretch woven ribbon to a curved neckline

4. You won’t be able to see that dart unless you look for the needle in the hay sack
4. Apply a non stretch woven ribbon to a curved neckline

Here’s how to create the corners in the woven ribbon:

1. fold the ribbon right sides facing, sew a dart at a 45 degree angle. I ususally pin it first to see which direction it will lay when unfolded. To make it unfold the other way, simply sew the dart the reverse side, with the V tip pointing the opposite direction.
1. Create a bent corner in the woven ribbon

2. unfold the dart
2. Create a bent corner in the woven ribbon

Tunic Neckline

Tunic Neckline

Tunic Neckline

3. the ends of the ribbon are turned to the underside and sewn with the seam allowances
Tunic Neckline

Crochet Collar Top and Outdoor Fabrics

June 5, 2009

I had one of those moments of inspiration yesterday followed by the sewing addiction and sleepless hours in front of the machine. You know those moments? I’m sure all of us sewing addicts have them often.

My sister in law visited us this weekend and she is always very stylish. She wore a breezy light cotton, had a band a woven band around the neckline, the fabric was gathered on this band.

if A -> B -> C then A -> C

woven band -> crochet collar

light breezy cotton -> embroidered cotton gauze

There I was putting the pieces of the puzzle together, pinning the fabric on the dress form, marking, cutting and sewing till after midnight. The collar was already crochet just looking for a match.

The whole top is underlined using the same fabric, the fabric is cut in a double layer so it eliminates the sheerness. The helped a lot with the finishing of the seams, the right side was first sewn to the underlining at the neckline and armholes, for front then the same for the back. A topstitch seam creates a nice finish and keeps the underlining from rolling up to the right side. The back has a cut in the center, the lining and underlining were sewn together, just like when you are working with a facing, but this time the facing is as long as the top.The side seams are sewn like a tube, the underlining side seams and then the top’s side seams all in one long seam. Turn everything to the right side, sew the crochet part onto the top. Sew a little further away from the crochet’s edge, I like to leave the edge of the crochet hang freely over the fabric, so the seam doesn’t even show. Or it can be attached by hand…but I’m too lazy.

I didn’t know what to do with the hem, since I had two layers of fabric now. I had the chose of cutting the top layer shorter and let the bottom layer visible, but I sewed them together over a folded band.

The next morning I woke up to wear my breand new top :) Thanks Ioana for the inspiration.

Oh, and I did it all by draping on the dress form, no pattern for the crochet part either. It has matching pineapple earings to go with it! Photos pending of course.

***************************************************************************************

My fabrics are nicely packed inside a box that arrived the same morning from the Rocky Woods online store.

Just waiting to be cut.

Polartec Windbloc Laminate – Graphite/Brick
Woven poly face (brick)
High pile grid velour back (graphite)
2-way stretch
Polartec Windbloc Laminate - Graphite/Brick

Gore® Soft Shell with microfleece liner – Grey
Water repellent, smooth woven face
Waterproof Gore-Tex membrane
Microfleece back
No stretch
Gore® Soft Shell with microfleece liner - Grey

Reflective zippers:
Zippers with Silver Reflective Stripes

The others are the UV protection fabrics for the shirts. The red and green are a little fuller but will be great for the long sleeved versions, the plaid ones are very soft to the touch and thinner, looking forward to sewing those. The colors for me are not really muted, red and pink, but oh well…why not be a little girlie…even if it is sports wear.
Sun Protective Fabrics

I wish that Rocky Woods would have better pictures of the actual fabric, like the fashion fabrics club has. That would make the whole buying stuff online an easier choice. They do offer samples, I just didn’t want to wait that long.

Now I have to carefully choose a pattern for the softshells and already have some patterns in mind for the shirts.

I do need more advice on the seam sealing process. Will the seam tape that is ironed on hold over the fleece backing? Will the SeamGrip work? hmm….

after some more reading…I found this link that explains a lot about sealing and seaming http://www.bushwalking.org.au/FAQ/DIY_RNCSeams.htm

Updated: After all the research, I decided to call Rocky Woods, actually spoke to a nice person, no robots, and she told me that the iron on tape will probably peel off from the fleece backside, as I suspected. I will try the shoe goo on a scrap piece, since I already have that at home and they say it is similar to SeamGrip. If that doesn’t work either, I will simply sew a double seam, maybe a french like seam…that will also look good on the inside if it is not too bulky, or use some bias tape, maybe reflective…or who knows, I’ll play a little with the scraps…

P.S. After everything is sewn, here is how to take care of it:

http://www.rockywoods.com/Fabric-Information-Help/App-Notes/Outerwear-Repair

How to sew outdoor fabrics:

http://www.questoutfitters.com/tips_and_hints.htm

Drape Neckline on Yellow Top

June 3, 2009

A basic top pattern can be altered to create a drape neckline.

http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/1891

To obtain the drape effect on the front neckline, I’ll draw some lines on the Lydia Top from BurdaStyle to make it similar to the pattern I used. I haven’t tested this, but I’m trying to give you an idea of how the pattern actually is.

Discard the neckline facings. These will be cut in one piece with the front and back.

Raise the inner corner of the shoulder seam in the back just a little, and also the center back line. Create a V shaped line at the outer corner of the shoulder seam, to create the back facing, that will fold in when sewn. Cut in a small pinch at the tip of the V line, to stitch the shoulder seam and the facing line when sewing the front piece to the back piece. The facing will be folded inwards, thus visible finishing seams will not show on the right side of the fabric.

For the front side, elongate sideways the pattern at the shoulders, draw the same V line and create the facing by raising the neckline.

I hope this is useful, and you get an idea of how the drape in the front can be created. The drawing is similar to the pattern I have used, and I think that Lydia can be adjusted this way.

Drape Detail

Yellow Drape Top

May 12, 2009

Yellow Drape Top, originally uploaded by fmirela.

Pattern: Burda WOF 10/1998

My favorite pattern for drapy fabrics again and again. Not much to say really, a simple fast serger project. Not a stitch done on the sewing machine, everything in this one is serger, so speed. Simple cut, drapy fabric, 15 minutes cutting out and about an hour of sewing.

Here are some details so you can see the fabric. My mom got this for me in that little dusty Italian fabric shop back home in Cluj, Romania.

The drape at the neckline:
Drape Detail

The coverstitch hem:
Coverstitch Hem

Stripes

May 12, 2009

Stripes, originally uploaded by fmirela.

I’ve made the pattern for the top I’m wearing as simple as possible and really gave thought to the stripes on the fabric, wanted to align the teal line with the waist line.

Shoulder stripes

So this is a simple T shaped top with a fitted waist and sort of a 70’s feel in the cut and 80’s in the print. I keep meaning to scan the pattern and share it on BurdaStyle…maybe one day…

The top on the dress form is finished and there is another one I’ve made already in the same fabric, pictures pending.

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