Archive for July, 2006

Orange Top. Continued

July 30, 2006

Curious? about how this is top is going to turn out, I started early today, with confidence, as last night I have studied the sewing instructions about three times. I felt ready to take everything to the next level and finish it. After all, this fabric has been awaiting its destiny for at least three years.

Putting everything together

Rolled HemWith the serger threaded with orange, ready for a narrow rolled hem suitable for sheer fabrics, I have finished the edges of the front and back draping. I have sewn the pleat on the right of the right of the front ruffle.

Then came the time to sew the lining together with the front of the top, and the front draping. The straps needed to be made first. The straps were to be included in the top seam with all the pieces sewn at the same time.

Making the straps

Cutting bias tapeI have cut my own bias tape out of the sheer orange fabric. A nice satin or velvet ribbon can be used instead. Also a stronger, bra like, satin elastic strap can be used for more comfort.

The idea is to end up having a 5mm flat strap. When the bias tape is cut from the same fabric, it is essential that the bias cut is made, as it does make the strap slightly elastic.

Sew a straight seam almost at the middle of the tape, keeping the tapeSewing Bias Tape folded in half, faces together, then finish the edges.

Turn the strap inside out.

StrapKeep the sheer part of the top inside out.Insert face to face the lining inside the sheer circle, so that the top part of the lining meets the top part of the orange fabric, where the seam will be made.

In the front part of the top, between the lining and the sheer orange Sewingfabric, insert the front draping, so that it lays with the wrong side to the front side of the sheer fabric, when it is turned again right side out, the draping is facing front too. Place the straps in place in front.

StitchHand sew these together, all the way around, or use the machine with a setting for the longest stitch length (it will be easy to remove this seam later). Have a fitting to pin in place the straps in the back, to determine their final length. Also, you can make the straps of adjustable length, just like a bra’s straps.

Now it is safe to machine sew everything together all the way around. I have used the serger for this seam, then enforced the seam with the machine’s straight stitch.

When this is turned right side out, you already have a nice top. This pattern can be used without the draping or only with the front draping (to keep the asymmetric design) and it looks great! I will certainly reuse it like this.

Adding the draping

FinalPlace back draping facing down on the right strap. From the mark of the draping, sew it on the strap all the way to the other mark and to the other end of the strap. Turn it right side up, toward the lateral part of the top. Sew again on the strap this time place a clear elastic tape on the under side, which will keep the strap from slipping off.

Sew on the right strap, the back end of the front draping, in the same place sew the back draping, and let it fall to the back, almost as long as the top.


And here it is!


Enjoy and keep on sewing!

Orange UFO

July 28, 2006

Tonight I decided to continue another UFO (unfinished sewing object) of mine. I had a nice sheer orange fabric, which was too transparent to be sewn on its own. It was already cut using a pattern I liked for a long time now. I Finally found a fabric that I hope is going to be perfect for this. The fabric has little squares of different colors that sort of repeat, so it will look better bias than straight. The pattern can be found in Burda Fashion Magazine No 05/2003, model 130. Burda patterns are so classic, you don’t have to worry that with an older issue your item might get out of style (choosing a model from an older magazine will simply make your creation more unique 😉 ). I hope it will be as nice to wear to work and also go out to cocktails after, considering the right jeans or skirt are worn.

I cut my lining (a very soft, thin lycra fabric I use also for swimwear) according to the pattern that is specially designed for the lining in Burda. The front of the top is made from the sheer fabric, that is bias and goes all the way around to the back, with only one seam in the center of the back. (Actually in the instructions a zipper is mounted in the back, but I will try and see if it will fit without the zipper. It would make things sooo much easier.). Since I do not want to use the zipper, I didn’t make any cut in the center back of the lining, which should not be problem, since lycra is very stretchy.

After pining together (ball point needles) the pleats of the back and front, because the lining is lycra, I am using now the overlock machine to finish the pleats. It is set on a simple three thread overlock seam.

Next, I have finished the lateral seams for the lining.

I have pinned the center back of the sheer orange top, then tried it on. Sorry, no pictures with this….although it does look very sexy with no underlining. That, I could not wear to work, unless I want a promotion…or get fired.

My brother in law called us over for a glass of….”talk”. Beers mainly.

To be continued…