More sewing

July 15, 2010

I have made a lot of progress yesterday on the coat, or today, cause I did stay till after 1AM.

Note to self: stop sewing so late and in a hurry… I caught my finger in the sewing machine!

I love my Brother sewing machine, but it has a defect by design. I would call that a bug, others would say it is a feature. It is programmed to stop with the needle always in a preset position: either up or down. So, no matter if I take my foot of the power pedal, the machine has a mind of its own and takes one more step, to bring that needle in the preset position. After years and years of sewing on normal machines, I still can’t get over this issue. So late, last night as I was attaching the sleeve with the lining, in a tight circle, and by machine, with the rest of the coat on my left side, creeping into the seam, as I was trying to pull out the unwanted fabric from underneath the teeth of my Brother, bang! My finger gets caught by the screw on the right side of the needle, lifted up and pressed under the machine body. Believe me, there is no room for a finger up there… It is not that bad, just a scratch and feels like someone closed the door on it. Now I know how powerful my Brother is. Funny how they designed it with all the sensors that notify you that you are running out of thread and you forgot to move something, pull a level or lower presser foot…but it doesn’t stop when a finger gets stuck. I also noticed something even more scarier about it, I hope I never get to experience that “first finger”. When you go over some very thick fabric it cannot penetrate, it tries again and again, very rapidly punching the needle downwards…what if that is was finger???? Then either the needle breaks or it stop saying some silly error message, like the protection mechanism kicked in…right.

Wish I did a muslin first.

Note to self: lengthen the bodice! you have a long torso. The pattern is designed for a 168cm high woman, I’m 171, so I figured the difference is no that big, it should work. But my torso is toooo long: now the waist line is uncomfortably high. It does not look bad, just feels weird tying a belt around my ribs.

Note to self: Leave a lot more hem allowance on the sleeves! Lot: like 15 cm more. When I added the shoulders, the sleeves got shorted with the thickness of the shoulder…Lucky my design called for cuffs, lucky I made them big.

All this agony for putting the cuffs on the sleeves, the sleeve header and shoulders, the lining with the piping…now all is left is the hem, finishing the front sides and snaps!

It looks pretty good, but I don’t know how to finish the hem line and the front sides in the center. Normally I either do a topstitch or just iron it, but this time it seems that ironing will not work, since it doesn’t lay with a smooth edge. Since the corners are round, how far do I topstitch? Could I go all the way around to the back vent? or just down till the curved edge? Any clues?


Oh, and here are the links I studies yesterday to help with the process:

Have a look at Tany’s lining next to back facing and hem facing and lining.

Nameless tutorial 2 shows how the hem facing is done:

All about sleeve-heads:

Now here I’m not sure I did it right, because the sleeves are so puffy. Another Note to self: no more puffy sleeve heads! I don’t like them and I find them hard to sew.

All about shoulder pads:

After all, I ended up buying mine, time is of the essence.

Tonight I will try to put a snap in.


One Response to “More sewing”

  1. Mirela Says:

    Since I didn’t get any answer to the front stitching dilemma, I remember my mother’s advice: if you do a topstitch on the facing, catching in the seam allowance, close to the edge seam (2-3mm close) the fabric will want to fold along the seam better. I stopped about an inch before the collar seam. That way no seam is visible from the front side.

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