Archive for the 'Skirt' Category

Deep Purple Drape and Floral Skirt

November 14, 2010

Deep Purple Drape and Floral Skirt, originally uploaded by fmirela.

Blouse Fabric: Rayon Jersey
Blouse Pattern: Burda WOF Magazine 10/1998

The same pattern all over again… for the drape neckline top. I’ve also sewn this pattern recently in a jersey wool, green and the gray one awaits hems.

Skirt Fabric: Cotton poplin with cross grain stretch with floral pattern from JoAnns
Pattern: Burda WOF Magazine 02/2008

I simplified the skirt pattern by removing the waist bands. Nice pattern for a simple pencil skirt.

I added lace under the hem line and hand stitched the hem.

Lace hem

I also added a ribbon (folded over the raw edge) for the front and back facings.

I used an invisible zipper on the side.

I turned the overlocked edges of the side seams towards the inside and sewn over.
Lace hem


The A Plus A Line Skirt variation

October 15, 2009

The A Plus A Line Skirt variation

The A Plus A Line Skirt variation, originally uploaded by fmirela.

BurdaStyle contest entry based on free pattern from Burda Style.

Thanks to Twinkle by Wenlan! My inspiration came from the book The Art Of Manipulating Fabric thanks to Roberta for pointing this book out to me! Pretty cool!

I wanted to keep the fullness of the skirt, and apply a quick and fun technique of machine smocking. I used the same decorative honeycomb stitch to sew the hem and the topstitching on the yoke. Another change to the pattern is the lowered waistline (with about 5 cm).

Brief Instructions for the machine smocking

Wish me luck! 😉

No luck this time. here is the winner:

And this out of 64 creations, some really gorgeous, a skirt with no hem at all and some lace over it wins, I have to disagree…I liked the third price winner more, and many others out there deserved it better, but oh well…cute stockings.

Eva Jacket with lining & Burda Top

February 17, 2008

Sorry if I scared everyone away with my previous post…I was really p#$sed off. Oh well…maybe little Ruby makes it to some poor kid and makes him happy…I doubt it…

Looking back at my latest sewing projects, I see gray! Don’t quite know why, I do love color and don’t have a favorite color…I guess I see gray as more business casual and serious then let’s say pink and orange…

The Eva Jacket No. 2 is done!
I have added shoulder pads to both and lining, with piping around the front and back. This makes a huge difference in the way it looks, especially if I take the jacket off. I now can be proud to say: “I’ve made this!” instead of saying…you know “I did not want to add the lining”, all threads hang out on purpose… and then find a silly excuse..
There really should be no excuse not adding lining to jackets, unless you are using the bias bindings or French seams… it’s really easy to add it and doesn’t take as long as you think. Here’s a great video from BurdaStyle, it might be all you need to know to add it.

Gray  Suit
Big b..

Big b..

The skirt is from Burda WoF No. 05/2006 and I simply love the pattern!
I did some changes to it and added the zipper and front center, eliminating the back center seam, and didn’t do the pockets, although I think they would have been great. I was really tight with the fabric, no remains at all! I hardly had a little piece to adjust the thread tension on the machines…

The top is from Burda WoF 04 or 05/2000 and I have sewn this a few years back…

Coming up: 2 more long sleeve blouses and a cami.
Another jacket from La Mia Boutique has been cut and waiting…

I can’t believe next Sunday I’m in my home town: Cluj Napoca and it’s winter there! I’ll be teaching this course in Bucharest, planning on wearing the suit, if it is not going to be under -10 degrees C.

Will I look like a teacher in this?

Eva Jacket and Burda Skirt

Mirela’s Eva Jacket & Marie Skirt

January 27, 2008
BurdaStyle – Eva Jacket, originally uploaded by fmirela.

Finally I have a suit. I paired BurdaStyle’s Eva jacket and Marie skirt with this stretch twill cotton fabric from fashion fabrics club – still available.

I went with the fake pocket clasps and no lining for comfort in summer days.
I must give credits to my mom helping me out with this creation. We cut the pattern and fabric out together and she assisted me with the ironing of every seam and interfacing piece, while I was sewing. I have made this in just a few hours and am thrilled with the results.
The Eva pattern is perfect, I’m crazy about the bust darts and the collar, it fits perfectly! I’m definitely sewing this pattern again and again.

BurdaStyle - Eva Jacket and Marie Skirt

BurdaStyle - Eva Jacket and Marie Skirt


The little Marie skirt…I was a little afraid to sew this one, thinking it will be kind of bulky or puffy, but it is cute and girlie! The leftover fabric from the jacket was just enough to make one side with the box pleats and the other one simple… I pinned down the pleats on the paper pattern to create a plain skirt panel. I also made it about 11cm shorter.
I like this skirt with the pleats in the back and the simple pencil skirt front.


May 9, 2007

Silk, originally uploaded by fmirela.

I got this gorgeous 100% silk from Fashion Fabrics Club and it is more beautiful then I had imagined.
I have sewed a bias skirt, just over the knees in length. I was left again with a big bias triangle of silk, which of course turned out to be just perfect for my signature triangle top.
I have sewn many meters of round lace out of the fabric (there goes the other triangle leftover, cut in bias bands). I used this lace for the skirts waist line, around the neck of the top. The blouse is like a corset in the back and the bias strips are now lacing it.

I have received many compliments of the skirt, after wearing it with a plain T-Shirt at work.

The look changes in an instant when the skirt and top are worn together, from day to night wear I’m one top away!

I plan on wearing this during my trip to Vegas at the end of this month, and take many pictures with it!

Elegant Halter Top and Skirt

February 28, 2007

This elegant hanger top is made out of stretch black tulle, with delicate lilac velvet roses and lined with smooth stretch Lycra.

Perfectly fitted around the waist and empty back.
Creates sexy flattering folds in front, without being revealing.

This skirt is knee length and has an eye catching ruffle at the hem line.
Great for a cocktail, or can be dressed down by wearing it with a simple t shirt.

The ruffles at the bottom of the skirt have a narrow rolled hem finish:

This Italian fabric is so unique and delicate, it is stretch tulle, very transparent, and it has velvet lilac roses with green and blue hues.
The skirt and top are both lined with Italian Lycra. Shinny and stretchy as well, offers a great level of comfort.
Here’s a closeup view:

To make something out the scraps of fabric:
Cut out the flowers from a fabric that does not fray. Overlap the flowers. Sew over a velvet ribbon, with beads in the center of the flowers. Finish the ribbon with ribbon ends. Add a chain extension and a clasp.

So I still had some leftover fabric!
What’s next? Lingerie, of course!

Pictures courtesy of my dear friend Roberta, to whom I cannot give enough thanks!
Who is she?
Don’t they look awesome!!

Light Gold Silk

August 27, 2006

The idea

I wanted a nice elegant top to wear with jeans, since I am living in Florida, were Proper Dress Required means sparkly flip flops, shorts and T-shirts. To wear the jeans with a nice top is considered elegant here. I will wear blouse this at work, or when going out for a walk or a fancy dinner. I think this top can be mixed and matched together with jeans, a nice skirt or a suit, so it can be worn on any occasion. Simpler to put on then a dress, that can be too elegant and sometimes inappropriate, I chose to do the top and a matching skirt, out of the same fabric. Putting on a dark T-shirt with the skirt should work just fine. The blouse and the skirt together will be just as nice as a dress.

The Fabric

Browsing around at Fashion Fabrics Club online fabric store, I bumped into this Yellow silk charmeuse.

Set#R655 “Yellow Satin Charmeuse”
Solid Yellow
Stretch Silk Satin Charmeuse Fabric
Suitable for Blouses, Dresses, and Special Occasions
97% Silk
3% Lycra
45″ Wide
Hand Wash Cold or Dry Clean
Yellow is far from being my favorite color, but from the picture it looked a little darker and not the bright. It will look nice in contrast with blue or black. I have bought it together with a silk dupioni dark navy and a sheer silk print, which I cannot wait to sew. The navy dupioni is for a serious suit, and it will look good with any of the other fabrics underneath.

I cannot believe the huge selection of silk they have: from sheers and organza, to suit weight, even home decor, in all colors and prints, everything! I was amazed! Prices range from 6$ to …who know. For a natural soft fiber like this it is worth it! Of course, now I will spend the time hand washing it and then iron it, but it can also be taken to the dry cleaners.

The patterns

For the top I have both some time ago a nice pattern from Burda International 2006, model No 8132.

For this wrinkly blouse a simple skirt will do, just below the knee. I always wanted to make the one from Burda magazine 05/2004, but I was always afraid of those front seams. I guess I got a little courageous this time and decided to give it a try.

The Cutting

After preshrinking and ironing the silk, it was cut time. It was around 7PM on a Friday evening.
The blouse pattern already included the seam allowances, which really confused me, and I believe that the blouse is now a little larger than it was supposed to be. Since the fabric is stretchy, I decided not the put a zipper in the back of the blouse. I am also used to seeing all the details on the pattern pieces, like the numbered corners, that indicate the order of the seams. In this pattern they were missing from the small schema of the pattern pieces, and they were displayed only inside the big pattern sheet. I missed that quick reference to look at from time to time. I have complicated my life and abused the copyright. I have copied the pattern in my size, instead of cutting it of the provided sheet, in order to be able to have it for later in all sized. Anyway, enough criticizing, the final result is great and following the instructions given in detail, step by step, really helped.
The skirt
I definitely started easy. With my elastic natural silk, I eliminated the zipper on the skirt, and quickly put it together to see if it fits without zipping. And I was right! I have managed to sew almost all of the skirt with the serger, except for one seam. I used a trick my mom thought me: wet and iron each seam, the result will be perfect and it will be easy to iron it from now on.
I did the front and back seams, then the laterals, had a fitting and I was ready to sew on the lining.
Simply sew the round facings at the top of the skirt.
Use clear elastic for a very thin seam at the waist line, and a little support, so the skirt does not come of by itself.
Sew the elastic in place in one step with the serger, while sewing the facings to the skirt.
Next, sew on the face of the facings, a little seam, very close to the edge of the skirt. This will help make the fabric fold towards the back.

Around 9PM (after 2 hours of cutting and sewing), I simply rolled a hem and I had the skirt ready!

The Blouse

Lay the inset piece with no interfacing on the interfaced inset piece, with the right sides of both pieces facing up.

Baste and stitch edges together.

Pin upper side front pieces to upper front pieces, right sides facing.Baste and stitch seams.Baste and stitch lower side fronts to upper side fronts, rights sides facing.
To gather the edges of the upper front pieces and lower side front pieces, first stitch two closely spaced lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting).Pull bobbin threads of machine basting to gather each edge to match corresponding edge of inset.Know gathering threads.Distribute gathering evenly.
First stitch inset to one half of bodice front, right sides facing.Then stitch inset to second half of bodice front.Stitch seams exactly to ends of seams / into corners.
Baste and stitch shoulder seams. Baste and stitch side seams. Lay front facing pieces on back facing pieces, right sides together. Stitch shoulder seams and lower edges of facing. Pin facing to neck edges, right sides together, matching shoulder seams. Turn under allowances on front and back edges of facings.Stitch facings to neck edges.Turn facings up. Topstitch facings close to seams, catching allowances.Turn facings inside, baste.
Hand sew back facing edges to front facing edges to insert attachment seams.
Rolled hem with embroidery used in the lower looper of the serger.
This is it!

Different Shades of Silver

August 11, 2006

HTML Source EditorWord wrapMy friend Oana was looking for something simple to make and elegant. We picked out a double sided silver satin, from JoAnn Fabrics for a bias skirt.


Fabric and Embroidery

Browsing through my pattern magazines my eyes stopped at this pretty black and white bias skirt. The skirt had decoupage embroidery on the top black side, with the white showing through. That created a nice contrast and I really wish I could reproduce it on the silver satin. One side of the fabric is very smooth and shiny, while the other is a darker shade of gray. In my attempt to embroider the satin, after annoying mistakes on little pieces of fabric, I started reading a little about the right way to do this without an embroidery machine. Since i can only use a simple zig zag for this, here is a detailed description on how to tweak your stitch into a satin stitch, how to do appliqué embroidery:


The point is I need a hoop and a free motion foot, plus a lot of patience. Without the free motion foot, the pressure on the fabric is too big and you have to stop too often and pull too hard on the fabric to take turns. This cannot be done on bias fabric, as it stretches a lot much around the seams. I will certainly give embroidery another try later…and probably on a different texture of fabric, after I get a free motion foot. The price should be around 15-20$.


Instead of the embroidery, Oana and I chose a silver net ribbon that will be applied on the skirt. This of course will be much simpler to do…I always find it hard to decide how much fabric is needed for anything bias. I advised Oana to buy almost 2 yards of this satin (we had 40% off). That was exactly how much they had in the store. We bought all of it. The fabric turned out to be 58″ wide, and we got to cut out a bias top as well. I will use the ribbon for the top straps.

The Top

Remember the orange top I did in my previous project? I said I will reuse that pattern, and I kept my word. This time the top is simple, without the ruffle. StrapThe top straps are made of the silver ribbon, crossed in the back. I have started with the back seam. Then the lateral seams for the lining. Next attach the lining to the top, catching the ribbon straps in place in the front and back. There have been many fittings in the meanwhile to determine the length and placing of the straps.



The skirt

To sew the top part of the skirt, to the bottom part, I have adjusted the overlock machine to sew both the edges and the end seam at the same time, with 4 threads. It turned out great, without stretching the seam. Because the seam was on a bias cut, I was afraid that it will stretch, but not with the overlock. The differential feed was really useful for this.

After the seam was done between the lower and upper part of the skirt, on the front and back side, I ironed it, so the ribbon was easier to apply.

The ribbon was narrow enough to pass through the machine feet guide. Using the widest cover stitch (5.6mm), with 2 threads on top I sewed the ribbon in place, exactly over the bias seam. With one of the edges of the ribbon covering the seam, not centered. The ribbon was placed on the darker colored fabric, to create a higher contrast. It really looks good and Oana liked it too! It creates a nice pass from the darker fabric on top, to the silver bottom of the skirt.

The skirt was too loose at the waist line, and looked better with a higher waist. So I had to go in a little bit inside each pleat and a lot more on the lateral seams at the top, about 3 cm at least.


The Zipper

ZipperIt took me forever to attach the invisible zipper and do the lateral seams. Broke a needle as well. Although the fabric seemed to be a good idea for a bias project, I have strong doubts now… All seams seamed to look ok, without stretches when the fabric was inside out and unworn. As soon as Oana tried it on, it just would not seat as we wanted too…the seams were wavy and weird looking. I believe I had to sew over the same seams at least 10 times until I finally got it straight… Well almost right, the rest I took care of by ironing on the wet fabric.


LiningNext I attached the waist line, on the back side. I always sew a little seam that catches the seam allowance to the waist line, on the lining at the top of the skirt, very close to the front of the skirt. It will force the fabric to twist towards the back and sit nicely, without having the seam visible from the front of the fabric.

HemFor the hems on both the skirt and the top I used an embroidery thread in the lower looper, with a rolled hem.

HemOana tried the outfit on and it looks ok. The top goes way better with jeans, not with the skirt. Finally! It took a lot more time than I expected.

Triangle Top

After finishing the bias skirt and top, I was still left with a lot of fabric, and gray thread in my machines. It was about 8:30 PM when I spread the remaining fabric out and there was a large triangle, in a corner, perfect for something I have seen online. I rarely sew anything without a pattern, but I have experimented with this before, and it turned out ok. Oana also liked the idea of a simple top, and I though why not do it out of this fabric.

I got my inspiration navigating the web

Red Top

I have opened the link and there it was! The perfect idea for what I had! Silver satin triangle, silver ribbon!


In around 2 hours the top was ready. It turned out to look a lot better with the bias skirt. The ribbon on the skirt is parallel with the ribbons on the top. The ribbon is tied around the neck in a bow, and goes all the way around to the back. The ends of the triangle are tied in a knot at the waist line, on the left.

Enjoy and keep on sewing!

Neat Knit

August 10, 2006

100% Cotton knit! That’s neat!

Today, my order arrived from 😀

Rib Knit Black
Cotton Poorboy Knit Lavender
Cotton Rib Knit Lime Cream

I am very pleased with them. They are just as I imaged: thin, soft to the touch, perfect for what i have in mind for them. Love the colors and the texture.

The idea is to sew tops and blouses (maybe wrapped) to wear over the top. In Florida outside it is boiling hot, while at the office I am freezzing.

A combination of stripes for the ribbed lilac fabric would work nice for a V neck top, where the top part is vertical and the base is horizontal.

I have found a nice pattern Burda 05/2006 for a wrapped blouse.

Wrapped TopWrapped Top

or from Burda 08/2006:

Wrapped TopWrapped Top

I can’t wait to finish my other projects and start working on these!